August 14, 2024

Everything about cosmetics clinical trials

1. What is a cosmetic clinical trial?

Cosmetic clinical trials are tests or studies conducted to scientifically verify the effectiveness and safety of a product. During this process, careful observation is made to see if the product causes any skin irritation, such as itching or redness, when used. Additionally, emphasis is placed on verifying whether the claimed benefits of the product, such as moisturizing, brightening, anti-aging and wrinkle improvement, actually occur.

Recently, consumers have come to value evidence that confirms the actual effectiveness of a product rather than relying solely on simple advertising slogans when purchasing cosmetics. As a result, the presence of clinical trials has become an important consideration in choosing cosmetics. Especially, the 'effectiveness' of a product significantly influences purchase decisions, highlighting the importance of 'clinical trials' that can objectively prove this effectiveness. This plays a crucial role in providing trust to consumers and enhancing the credibility of the product.

2. Benefits of conducting clinical trials for cosmetics

Conducting cosmetic clinical trials benefits brands in many ways:
  1. First, skincare clinical test trials allow for the scientific verification of a product's performance, which can establish credibility beyond mere marketing claims. Having data that proves the actual effectiveness of a product can greatly enhance the brand's image and credibility. This data is presented through before-and-after photos of the product and specific numerical values, providing consumers with a clear visual and quantitative understanding of the product's effects.

  1. Second, clinical trials are conducted objectively and without bias based on clearly defined measurement instruments and standards, enabling scientifically supported claims. This process allows for systematic measurement of various variables, which is advantageous in proving the multifaceted efficacy of a product. For example, it can verify whether the product is safe and effective for people with sensitive skin, which is a crucial factor in influencing purchases among consumers with demanding skin types.

  1. Third, the results obtained through clinical trials can be used as a powerful marketing tool on websites and in advertisements, potentially increasing the conversion rate of purchases. Additionally, clinical trial data that scientifically proves the efficacy and safety of a product can also serve as an effective sales brochure, instilling confidence in wholesalers. Consequently, clinical trials play a crucial role in building trust with consumers and enhancing a brand's competitive edge in the market.


This entire process is essential for brands to build trust beyond simply claiming effectiveness, and it greatly assists in increasing long-term customer loyalty and solidifying their position in the market.

Different Types of Cosmetic Clinical Trials
Different Types of Cosmetic Clinical Trials

3. Different Types of Cosmetic Clinical Trials

In vivo test / In vitro test

1. In vivo tests are conducted on living organisms (animals or humans). These tests are used to evaluate how a product functions within a living body.

Advantages: It can reflect the complexity and interactions of biological systems. For example, long-term efficacy clinical studies and cosmetic allergy testing allow for the observation of various layers of the skin or the overall immune response. Long-term observation is possible, enabling the assessment of effects and side effects that appear with prolonged use.

Disadvantages: Ethical issues may arise, especially when animals are involved, requiring compliance with animal ethics standards. This process can become even more complicated when developing vegan products. It is costly and time-consuming to complete the tests. Research design and data analysis can also be complex and lengthy.

2. In vitro tests are conducted in controlled laboratory environments, such as test tubes and Petri dishes. A major advantage of this method is cost efficiency. It allows for various experiments to be conducted at relatively lower costs compared to in vivo experiments. Additionally, the quick progression of experiments is another significant benefit, as it allows for rapid results, thereby shortening the research and development period.

Advantages: In vitro tests are conducted in strictly controlled environments, which minimizes the variables that can occur during experiments. This contributes to the reproducibility of research results. There are also relatively fewer ethical issues. Since in vitro tests do not directly use animals or humans, like in vivo tests, obtaining ethical approval is easier, and it is possible to avoid issues related to animal rights or human rights.

Disadvantages: However, in vitro tests also have some disadvantages. The biggest limitation is the difficulty in perfectly reflecting the complexity of in vivo tests. Within a test tube, it is challenging to mimic the various interactions of a living body or its overall physiological responses. Additionally, there are limitations in evaluating systemic effects. For example, it is difficult to accurately assess the impact of a drug on the entire body or its effects over an extended period.

For these reasons, in vitro experimental results are often used complementary to in vivo experimental results.

3. Perception studies:

Consumer perception studies primarily involve collecting direct experiences and feedback from consumers to understand how they feel about products or services. These studies provide evidence based on subjective data about consumer satisfaction, preferences, and usage experiences. The greatest advantage of consumer perception studies is their simplicity and low cost, which is why most brands widely utilize them to formulate marketing strategies. However, since these studies do not rely on objective scientific standards, there may be limitations regarding the objectivity and reliability of the results. Despite these drawbacks, consumer perception studies can be effective when combined with more systematic and scientific research methods like clinical trials. While skincare clinical tests scientifically evaluate the efficacy or safety of products, consumer perception studies assess how products are received in the market. Using both methods together can offer more in-depth and comprehensive insights into product development and marketing strategies.

4. Skin irritation studies:

Skin irritation studies, including skin sensitivity tests, are conducted to evaluate the effects of specific substances or products on the skin. In these studies, a patch test is typically applied to the skin for either 24 or 48 hours. After removing the patch, skin reactions are observed both 30 minutes and 24 hours later to assess the impact of the substance on the skin. This method accounts for potential physical irritation and allows for a scientific evaluation of any irritative and sensitivity reactions the product may cause to the skin.

5. Other most commonly performed tests

Test for skin soothing effects due to physical irritation:
This test evaluates how effectively a product soothes the skin when subjected to physical irritants, such as friction or pressure. The skin's response and recovery process after irritation are observed to measure the product's efficacy.

Test for skin soothing effects due to heat irritation:
This test evaluates the ability of a product to calm reactions such as redness and heating of the skin that can occur after heat exposure. The effectiveness is verified by measuring changes in skin temperature and reduction in redness after applying the product following heat exposure.

Low irritation test:
This test evaluates the level of irritating reactions that may occur when a product is applied to the skin. It involves observing any discomfort or reactions that arise after applying the product to the skin, to determine if the product is generally low-irritating.


Test for stability on sensitive skin:
This test, targeted at products for sensitive skin, evaluates whether the product causes any side effects or irritation to sensitive skin. After applying the product to sensitive skin, the skin's reaction is closely monitored to ascertain how well the skin tolerates the product.

In addition to these, sunscreen SPF testing, non-comedogenic tests, hypoallergenic testing, and acne treatment clinical tests are also commonly conducted.

What Do "Clinically-Tested," "Dermatologist-Tested," and "Dermatologist-Approved" Mean?‍
What Do "Clinically-Tested," "Dermatologist-Tested," and "Dermatologist-Approved" Mean?

4. What Do "Clinically-Tested," "Dermatologist-Tested," and "Dermatologist-Approved" Mean?

  1. When a product is labeled as "clinically-tested" it signifies that it has been evaluated in a clinical setting, often involving controlled trials or studies on human participants. These tests aim to assess the product's efficacy, safety, or specific claims. However, this label does not guarantee that the product met any particular standards or passed these tests; it only confirms that clinical testing was conducted.

  2. Similarly, a "dermatologist-tested" label means that the product has undergone dermatology research, testing for factors such as skin tone, sensitivity, or safety. However, like "clinically-tested," this label does not ensure that the product meets a specific standard for the tested feature—it simply indicates that testing took place.
  3. On the other hand, a "dermatologist-approved" product is one that a dermatologist, or a group of dermatologists, would recommend to patients and consumers following their review of dermatological testing. Although this term carries more significance than "dermatologist-tested," it doesn’t necessarily mean that the product is suitable for everyone. It simply reflects the opinion of one or more doctors.
  4. From a brand's perspective, which is best?
    The labels "Clinically Tested," "Dermatologist Tested," and "Dermatologist Approved" do not guarantee that a product is suitable for all consumers, but they can make the products appear sufficiently attractive. These three tests are typically conducted separately. However, if you conduct clinical trials with Crescent Seoul, you can achieve all three claims in one trial at the lowest cost. Moreover, we are committed to ensuring that during the product development process, we do our utmost to create a product that is safe and effective exactly as you desire.

5. What clinical trials are conducted on which products?

Before and after photos

1. Soothing products: When skin clinical tests are conducted using soothing skin care products, before and after results can be used as a detailed page.

Soothing
Soothing
Soothing

2. Brightening products: When skin clinical tests are conducted using brightening skin care products, before and after results can be used as a detailed page.

Brightening
Brightening
Brightening

3. Products to improve pores: Photos before and after the test that can be seen when clinical trials were conducted using products to improve pores.

Products to improve pores
Products to improve pores
Products to improve pores

In addition to this, the results of tests such as pigmentation clinical studies are also commonly used as before and after photos.

6. How long do skincare clinical trials typically last?

The duration of cosmetic clinical trials can vary and depends on the purpose and design of the research. Typically, short-term tests lasting 24 to 48 hours are common to evaluate the safety and efficacy of cosmetics. These short-term tests are conducted to observe the immediate reactions of the skin.

However, to assess the long-term effects or side effects of a product, tests may be conducted over several weeks to months. For example, with anti-aging products aimed at improving wrinkles or enhancing skin elasticity, it is necessary to measure the effects after continuous use for several months.

As the duration of skincare clinical trials increases, so do the resources and costs required for the research. Long-term trials involve additional logistics and expenses due to participant management, maintaining test sites, and repeated data collection and analysis. Therefore, the duration and scope of the trial should be carefully determined considering various factors such as the characteristics of the product, regulatory requirements for market release, and budget. This entire process is a crucial step in thoroughly verifying the safety and efficacy of cosmetics to ensure safe products for consumers.

What difficulties do brands face regarding cosmetic clinical research?
What difficulties do brands face regarding cosmetic clinical research?

7. What difficulties do brands face regarding cosmetic clinical research?

  • A major challenge that brands encounter in cosmetic clinical research is the pervasive lack of information. There is often insufficient publicly available data on cosmetic clinical trials, which complicates the process of identifying the necessary data and deciding on the most effective research methodologies. Additionally, the difficulty in finding and choosing a reliable clinical institution is exacerbated by the insufficient sharing of information between cosmetic brands and institutions conducting clinical trials. This may include significant variations in service scopes, costs, and testing methods offered by different institutions, which necessitates thorough comparison and analysis by brands. However, the lack of comprehensive information can make these comparisons challenging, potentially leading to less cost-effective choices or reduced reliability of research outcomes due to partnerships with unsuitable clinical institutions.
  • These informational deficiencies pose significant obstacles for brands aiming to enhance the quality of their clinical research and conduct efficient, effective studies. Specialized institutions like Crescent Seoul play a crucial role by providing the needed information, comparing quotations, and offering design advice, thereby facilitating smoother clinical research processes. This support not only helps brands achieve more accurate and reliable research outcomes but also ensures the development of products that are safe and effective for consumers.

8. Cost

  • The cost of skincare clinical research is generally quite high.In the United States, major centers such as Nelson Lab, Essex Testing Clinic, and Intertek, which conduct cosmetic clinical trials, typically charge between $20,000 and $50,000 for the tests. These high costs vary depending on the complexity of the research, the infrastructure required, and the scale of the trials.

  • On the other hand, conducting cosmetic clinical trials in Korea can be much more cost-effective. Testing institutions in Korea offer high cost efficiency, and it is possible to negotiate prices when conducting multiple tests simultaneously, which can further reduce costs. Additionally, English reports can be issued in Korea, allowing for the submission of international research results without any issues.
  • The duration of clinical trials typically takes about 6 weeks, and there are various types of tests available. Examples of the most affordable cosmetic clinical trials include primary irritation tests (low irritation), sensitivity primary irritation tests, and antioxidant in-vitro tests, with starting prices as low as $200 per test. With such a range of options, cosmetic brands can select the tests that best match their research objectives and budget. This provides a cost-effective way for brands to verify the safety and efficacy of their products.

9. Conclusion

Cosmetic clinical trials provide scientific validation of a product's effectiveness and safety, significantly influencing consumer purchase decisions. Particularly, skincare clinical trials conducted in Korea offer professional-level research at a much more economical cost compared to the United States. By leveraging these advantages, cosmetic brands can enhance their competitiveness in the market and build consumer trust. If you are considering professional and cost-effective cosmetic clinical trials, please contact Crescent Seoul for consultation.